Southern Lights – 10th to 19th February 2025

Leader: Marianne McNiel

Cyclists: Ann Anderson, Reg Churton, Matt Crozier, Marlene H, Margaret Law, Warwick Lord, Ron Jackson, Sherryl Martin, Marianne McNiel, David Puddephatt, Bruce Rankin, Nancy Rankin, Kathy Wilde, Helen Williams, Sue Woolnough.

 

10th Feb Lake Waihola to Kaitangata highlights:

• The new boardwalk, part of the  extension of the Clutha Gold Trail, initially winding through Lake Waihola, then edging along beside the railway toward Milton, past a derelict phosphate factory, remains of a wharf site for the Gold Steamer,  new bridges over a farm race, and an historic Toll House; Fruit trees laden with fruit as the trail met SH1
• Toko Mouth, where Tokomairiri River meets the ocean.
• Meeting this end of the Clutha, gliding along so serenly;
• Lovely new ablution block and covered seating for BBQ at Kaitangata Campground

11th Feb Kaitangata to Kaka Point highlights:

• Crossing the Clutha on an arched one way bridge to Balclutha Island. There was a pedestrian button beside the traffic light to allow plenty of time for foot traffic and photos;
• Despite the roadblock at Riverside Rd, we were able to push past and totally enjoy the quiet ride beside the river as far as Stirling, with its famous Colby Cheese factory;
• A lamb shank pie from Heart and Soul Cafe in Balclutha;
• The kind men at the Silver Fern meatworks at Finegand who advised us the paper road on our GPS route was inaccessable;
• The ride out to Nugget Point along past several beachfronts, sunshine, the colours of the water, and the tailwind up and over the headlands on our return to Kaka Point;
• Nugget Point- the walk out to lighthouse, nature in its rarest form.
• The views were forever- deep dark blue along the Catlins Coast and wild winds on the southwest. In contrast calm and warm on the northern side, cyan and turquoise sea, little seals yelping and resting on rocks, and a colony of royal spoonbills/ kōtuku kutupapa.

 

12th Feb Kaka Point to Lenz Reserve 

Over the day, the weather warmed up.

The road: todays ride had some wonderful downhills, especially the sealed road from Tunnel Hill towards Owaka, and another gravel road past Florence Hill lookout toward Papatowai. The gravel roads were described as challenging/ technical / fun/ fantastic by different members of the group.

Shopping: the Four Square at Owaka was able to provide food for the next few days; the Cafe at Okawa was busy, and had a newspaper  (with misleading headlines) signed by the six police offices who had refueled there after finding a nearby fugitive; and the shop at Papatowai provided afternoon refreshments, including decorated ice-creams. Some of us took photos of the brightly coloured tablecloths/ shower curtains on the tables outside. Both cafes had a friendly feel.

Tourist destinations:

• The spontaneous decision to ride out to Surat Bay was a great success. This was where nature met art. Some of us were fascinated by local sculptures. Most of us loved walking on the sand, with its ripples, delicate and picturesque, complementing the gentle surf and rugged coastline.
• We saw sea lions lounging on the soft sand, including a young pup, a mother and a tagged older pup, one pair with flippers caressing, and a male imposing his dominance/ protection of his haerem.
• Pūrākanui Falls was a wonderful surprise. Because of the dry season,  there wasn’t a huge amount of water, but what water there was cascaded down over three wide tiers, surrounded by bush.
• The manager at Lenz reserve was very informative and helpful. 
• Some of us enjoyed an evening bush walk, but didn’t hear as many birds as one might expect in a Forest and Bird reserve.

13th Feb Lenz reserve to Slope Point

I didn’t wake in time to hear the dawn chorus, just a few song birds.

At the start of our ride we diverged: One group went to Cathedral caves, where they were charged only half price because they were on bicycles; The other group wandered down toTautuku Estuary boardwalk through the expanse of grasses/rushes. Most of us stopped at Whistling Frog for coffee.

One highlight was the road up and down hill with lush bush either side. 

Another highlight was seeing a morepork on the verge at eyelevel, who then flew low across the road.

The cafe at Niagra, a beautifully revamped old classroom block with now debunked chimneys at each end, served delicious food, including beautiful cheese scones. In their colourful garden was a tap for spring water.

Waikaia museum gave Margaret a photo print of her great-grandmother’s house. This ancestor was a widow who owned land locally, and who made butter sold in her own butter paper, like a brand.

We didn’t see dolphins at Curio Bay, despite meeting people who had swum with dolphins earlier in the day.

After finding our accomodation, we cycled or drove to Slope Point, the most southern point in nz.

Today we crossed into Southland.

14th Feb Slope Point to Invercargill 

Weather continued to be on our side.

We added Waipapa point and lighthouse to our journey, before stopping at Fortrose Cafe. This was number one comment re highlights of the day: seconds of the wonderful coffee; Southlands famous cheese rolls; fritata; and detox and booster smoothies all enjoyed.

The road was sealed, through undulating hills, of rich green clover pasture and winter crops, with steep valleys fenced off. We passed a paddock of noisy fawns, and the odd creative attempts, including a steel plate bull, a castle made of haylage, and a giant pukeko. A tail wind enabled a touring speed of 33km for last 3 kms straight road.

Amble On Inn camp, on the eastern outskirts of Invercargill, had lovely showers, and a covered BBQ area for our communal dinner.

15th Feb Invercargill to Riverton

We were able to sleep in, because although we had cancelled the rest day, we thought we only had 30km to Riverton, and had arranged a 1pm start. The rude awakening in the am was that it was 30 miles/ 48km.

We stayed with the planned late start and were able to enjoy Invercargill. 

Matt led some of us through a cycle trail towards the TA trail, and and on into town to Hayes hardware to see Burt’s fastest Indian. I was also interested in Hayes’ old motor, which was evidently fired up and running last week. I loved the community feel of the shops: not some big mall, but shops opening into each other.

Others in the group went to Queens Park where they saw tuatara (plural). They also enjoyed the kids’ playground and animals.

The day had started with a fog, but soon we had blue skies, ‘nothing but blue skies, shining on me’.

Out of town we took ‘roads less travelled’- long straight roads with very loose gravel. Some of the farm paddocks were covered with yellow flowers- were they dandelions?

In the afternoon some of us went riding out to the point, and ate woodfired pizza on the beach, including chicken and prawn toppings, cooked by a French man. While there the fog began to roll in- a big cloud was hanging over the sea which then moved on into the bay. 

Our lovely view of blue water under the blue sky was blanketed.

 

16th Feb Riverton to Tuatapere

Because we had given up yesterday’s rest day, we were able to relax into a ride of half the original planned distance. 

On leaving camp we revisited the main street, then headed out to Colac Bay. On Margaret’s recommendation we cycled the length of this beach, viewing the “ministry of recreation” bus parked above the beach complete with surf board. A number of homes along the beachfront had arrangements of driftwood.

Heading away from this beach we happened upon a pub that happened to be open. Ron shouted us all coffee for his birthday.

Also on Margaret’s recommendation we rode off route to visit Cosy Cove. What a lovely spot. Some baches/cribs were inhabited, one getting a revamp, one empty and garden overrun after its admired inhabitant had passed on.

The sea was so idyllic today, but we learned that Takitimu canoe was wrecked on these shores, although the Takitimu mountains were still a days riding north. The next stop was Gemstone Beach, but we didn’t loiter here looking for stones.

At McCracken Lookout a Hector dolphin was spotted by Bruce . 

The Waiau River meets the sea in this Waewae Bay.

On arriving in Tuatapere ice-creams were consumed, before crossing the road to Tui Base Camp. 

 

17th Feb Tuatapere to Manapouri

The Tui Base camp had been a great place to stay for very reasonable prices. The tent sites even cheaper than DOC camps.

We faced another hot day, and because of the long journey ahead, without café or shops, it had been decided to start early: 8am.

We crossed the Waiau. Once out of town, our ride began on a 10km straight road.

One of our driver changes was at the amazing old Clifton suspension bridge.

Next, some of us stopped in at an original one room school at Otahu, which had recently been restored. (That’s where Warrick, who wasn’t ready for our early start, caught up with us.)

Further on we noticed a more recent  school closure, but the community pool had survived.

We enjoyed the scenery: ranges in the foreground with jagged mountains beyond.

At the next driver change Susan had parked up their motor home and set up a table with delicious oat biscuits, coffee sachets etc and boiled water. Much appreciated. 

Nancy was pleased to have a turn driving over Jericho hill. A huge down hill followed before a lunch stop, where a road sign indicated a lookout over a wetland and the Waiou River (which had been the second largest in nz pre the Manapouri dam). Some enjoyed lying in the grass at the bottom, some enjoyed the lookout halfway down, while some conserved energy, vying for the little shadow Ron and Susan’s motorhome provided .

The “Wee Bookshop” was closed as we cycled into Manapouri. I spotted the red hat society doll seated on the deck: wearing a red hat and purple coat. Some took photos, others returned in the morning to experience the southern most bookshop in the world. 

Once settled at the campground some of us crossed the road to the lake for a dip.

Helen invited us to dinner at her friend’s home for BBQ, open discussion, and some of the local gossip. Great.

18th Feb Manapouri to Te Anau

It rained overnight. We cycled  Lake2Lake trail, which is a beautiful track,  except for the detour up to the main road because the forest people didn’t let the cycle track through a short section.  Much of the trail takes us above the Waiau River, from where we could see jet boats cruising up to a beach. I missed taking a photo of a yellow boat, which it turned out Helen was aboard. On reaching Lake View campground in Te Anau, the campers were were pleased that Reg had booked a dorm for us, as cheap as camping. The others were pleased with their rooms too. 

Some of us were happy to head into town. Some of us were driven 8km back to Rainbow Reach, to walk a section of the Keplar track on the other side of Waiau, which was recommended to allow 2.5 to 3.5 hours. Matt set the pace, and we completed that section in just under two hours.

Ron and Sue were parked the opposite side of camp, and late afternoon Ron made contact after completing the ride to Milford Sound, which he had decided to accomplish instead of riding Lake2Lake again.

 

19th Feb Te Anau to Mossburn

We woke to a wet morning, with rain overnight – just when it didn’t matter.

Started off on a busy road. After 10 ks we stopped to split. Some going off on to a side road up into the hills – never to be seen again! Well so it seemed. I can’t write about this as I stayed on the main road, but by all accounts it was a beautiful ride.

Those of us who continued on the main road were able to have our mid morning coffee ( such JAFFAS!), but also keep the car roster going.

We eventually came to part of the Round the Mountain Trail which was an easy track meandering through paddocks by a stream. The mountains to our left looked dark and forbidding.

Before too long we were cycling into the Mossburn Country Park.

What a treasure – beautifully kept with lovely facilities, cabins for those of us under cover, and lots of space for the hardier tenters.

I’ll always remember getting to reception and a couple of very tame chocks stood guard to welcome us!

72 ks for us. Longer for the second group who cycled in later, with adventurous stories to tell.

 

20th Feb Mossburn to Waikaia

We awoke to brilliant sun shine, a cloud then hovered after a WhatsApp written on the Southern delights app was read. A sealed quiet road through wonderful countryside soon raised the cloud. Very good coffee in the Roasted & Toasted cafe in Lumsdan added to the days enjoyment. The Barrister was obviously the owner & took his coffee very seriously.

Picnic Lunch was just over a bridge on a grassed area by the Mataura river.

Our night accommodation at Waikaia was for the non campers in little cabins which had great views over the fields.

At least half of us headed to the pub/commercial hotel for dinner at 6pm where the friendly publican had us photographed behind the bar. The pub had been in the same family for generations. A good photo in the dining room of great grandmother could have been the owner in period dress.

 

21th Feb Waikaia to Tapanui

The Switzers settlement was previously on a hill, but after the gold rush moved to Waikaia. Riding uphill through recently graded gravel we saw a huge sign for Switzer and assumed that was the said hill, but later on saw Switzerr Rd leading up another hill. 

Also, on that first hill we saw a notice re a claim for gold, repeated several tines along winding stream valley. Some were pleased to have their turn to drive up steep hills, and we were all pleased when the pebble gravel changed to fine grit, and later to seal.

We saw our first orange cone on the road since leaving Aucland, put there to remind the occasional vehicle driver that livestock was being moved. Our bikes all got through before the cows. 

From the crest of each hill we could see agricultural patchworks: wheat not yet harvested; sheep grazing the brassica; other paddocks of green grass; ploughed fields; and shelter belts.

Many of us stopped to take photos of two paddocks of large, happy, yellow sunflowers. 

A cold wind had sprung up so we were pleased with the plan to ride a bit further to have morning coffee/ lunch combined at Waikaka, due to open at 11am- but it wasn’t. While waiting, a huge tour bus went through- the second we’d seen in this quiet rural region in two days. We waved at each other, both sides probably feeling sorry for the other party. 

A short time later a lovely lady arrived to open up, let us in, let us turn on the power and let us make our own coffee. She didn’t know how to open the till. We ate our own food. Some of us had a go at darts, while others were champing at the bit to get going again.

Once we were all back on our bikes the proprietor turned up. 

We’ve heard varying stories relating to the Waikaka pub :

The rural post driver had informed us that the  next day was the proprietor’s last one there;

The man at the garage said the pub is owned by 100 local shareholders, with a committee of twelve;

A lady working in the next town said that some shareholders complained about the proprietor, and the committee therefore ended the lease  without consulting all shareholders, many of whom were okay with the proprietor’s performance but hadn’t realized or spoken up;

The lady who let us in said that the proprietor was leaving because the lease was increasing by 120%;  

The proprietor was being replaced by staff organised from Milton.

Small town stuff. But the locals are all so friendly.

Finally, we all loved the down hill tailwind into Tapanui.

 

22nd Feb Tapanui to Lawrence

23th Feb Lawrence return to Lake

Margaret had rejoined the tour to finish her last section of the Clutha Gold Trail from Lawrence to Waihola. Four of the group decided to join her and had a wonderful ride, a tail wind all the way, with a lovely café stop at Waitahuna, and  cycling through the Mt Stuart/Glenore tunnel.

The remainder of the group joined the challenge of the planned route: 1245m altitude gain over 75km. Warrick must have been pleased that Rosemary had driven their RV to Lawrence and relieved him of his burden for this day. Sue continued her bike packing, as she was to split off to the airport.

The first hill was the longest and hardest, sealed only on the very steepest bits. Lots of pines were growing, some had been harvested with the slash mounded up in rows, some replanted.

We found ourselves up on a plateau, with a view of wind  turbines and the Mahinerangi Dam/Lake. Most of the plateau is farmland. Some grass had been harvested leaving delightful patterns on the ridges. One paddock of swedes (or a similar crop) stretched as far as the eye could see. We stopped at the HQ of this Landcorp/Pamu farm- Te Pori.

From there we could see the bridge over the dam, and a little further on the roadsign  indicating that that little track over the bridge was the way to Dunedin. We only saw a handful of vehicles until we reached Waipori  Village

The ride down through Waipori Scenic reserve was a narrow winding road with a warning at the top not suitable for 9m /articulated vehicles.

Most of us detoured through the remote Waipori Village, before we all cycled down to Waipori Falls. This was a bit of a non event: access to the main waterfall was gated; a tiny waterfall tumbled by the road; and the power plant was unused. It was, however, suitable for a picnic, although we (and anglers) were warned (by multiple signs) that river levels could rise quickly when water is released from the dam above.

From there on, the road followed beside the river. After passing the fourth weir and station, the road crossed a bridge and flattened out for a bit. 

Lucky Sue took the road to the airport, with the wind behind her. The rest of us battled on over hills and into headwind. From the crest of the hills we had an amazing view over the two lakes, Waipori and Waihola  that both the Waipori and Taiere rivers fed, and Waihola township on the other side. I’d been told Lake Waihola was tidal, and from this point we could see that the wetland was really an estuary. We stopped briefly at a picnic site: Sinclair Wetlands Te Nohoaka o Tukiauau.

Finally, it was such a relief to turn into Young Rd, then Lake Rd, and have the wind blow us back the last stretch of the Clutha Cycle trail to our starting point.