Organiser: Pieter H
Taranaki Tunnels Tour Cyclists: Pieter H, Maureen M, Louise S, Stephen T, Annette C, Luitgard S, John M, Janette L, Marianne M, Matt C, Mike B, Barry C & Catherine D.
Additional Hub Tour Cyclists: John B (Sloop), Kay W, Roz C, June C, Sue W, Jackie H & Carolyn W.
Day 0 – Auckland to Otorohanga
Author: Pieter
It was a very interesting start to our very interesting tour. We planned to meet in Otorohanga at 5pm, only to find they’d declared a state of emergency that morning due to the flooding the previous day. Amongst other things, both main roads into Otorohanga were closed.
However, a phone call with the campground owner, an improving forecast, and a few phone calls from Maureen to her friends and contacts, led us to proceed as planned. As it transpired, there was very little evidence of flooding in the campground, and we were able to enjoy a very pleasant evening eating our takeaways outside.
Day 1 – Otorohanga to Kiritehere, 69km, 830m climbing
Author: Maureen
After checking out of Otorohanga Kiwi Holiday Park, most of the group headed off into town to find just one cafe open early. Coffee or a cooked breakfast was enjoyed before we set off down back streets making our way to Waitomo Valley Road, where there was absolutely no sign of any flooding, unlike Otorohanga town and other surrounding areas.
We rode into Woodlyn’s Holiday Park to look at their world-unique accommodation. Five motel units in an old ship, others in a freighter plane, train carriages along with the Hobbit motel caves. Next stop was the café in Waitomo, where we had morning tea.
From here on, it was 10 kms of gradual climbing, followed by three points of interest, Mangapohue Natural Bridge, Piripiri Caves and Marokopa Falls, the latter with a new viewing platform. The Toi Toi café at Te Anga has now reopened only to be closing again permanently.
From here, it was quite a long slog into headwind to Marokopa beach. From Marokopa there is only one way out and that is straight up and over to get to Kiritehere where we stayed at The Fern and Fossil farm stay, which was a wonderful large house. Tonight, it cooled off somewhat.
Day 2 – Kiritehere to Awakino, 68km, 900m+ climbing
Author: Luitgard
A grey/drizzly start to the day. Back on the main road the first stop at the old Kiritehere School.
Off we went on a gravel road into a valley of mainly sheep farms and a few remaining patches of bush.
Soon after we had to tackle the first major hill of the day (Mangatoa Road Saddle). After a long downhill section, we reached our halfway point at Waikawau
A red cottage at the intersection caught our attention. Turns out that the cottage is the Night 1 Accommodation of the Nuku Walk (a fairly new 3-day, 3-night private catered trek).
However, our destination wasn’t the hills but Waikawau Tunnel and Beach. The tunnel was built in 1911 so that farmers of the Nukuhakari Station could drive their cattle along the beach.
Back at the intersection we decided to take on the second hill before lunch.
Headwind was the challenge in the afternoon heading towards Awakino. A cleared hill site (native bush or pine) and a piece of old machinery along the way had us wondering.
Only three of us made the detour to the Fraser Smith Tunnel close to the SH3 intersection.
We got to the Awakino Hotel shortly after 2 pm. The bikes were stored in the Hotel’s “Tearoom”, very much to the dislike of the dog taking an afternoon nap in the Tearoom’s lounge chair.
Day 3 – Awakino to Ahititi
Stats: 31.3 km | 336 m climbing | 1 hr 40 min moving time
Weather: Mostly sunny, ~18°C with a 17 km/h NNW breeze
Author: Barry
Day 3 was essentially a recovery ride—a gentle cruise from our overnight stay at the pub in Awakino down SH3 to Ahititi Primary School.
Naturally, no ride begins without coffee, and the first stop came quickly: just 8 km down the road at Mokau where coffee and muffins were enthusiastically consumed. Priorities firmly in order.
While in Mokau the group paid a visit to the excellent Mokau Museum and Gallery. This turned out to be one of those small local museums that completely over-delivers—packed with fascinating stories, quirky artifacts, and displays that capture the character and history of the area far better than many larger institutions.
A short climb up to the Mokau Lookout provided sweeping views of the coast, along with a quiet wander through the nearby cemetery perched above the sea.
From Mokau we continued south along SH3 to Tongapōrutu, home of the famous Three Sisters Rock Formations. Exceptional planning by Pieter meant the tide timing was perfect, allowing us to wade along the beach to the river mouth for a close look at these iconic sea stacks. A highlight of the day.
Interestingly, the five separate roadwork sites along SH3 worked in our favour. Each set of stop/go traffic lights released vehicles in bursts—short rushes of cars followed by long, peaceful stretches of empty road. For cyclists, it was almost ideal.
With a friendly tailwind pushing us along, the final run into Ahititi was quick and relaxed. Our campsite for the night was the welcoming grounds of Ahititi Primary School, which offered plenty of great tent spots plus access to the staff room and community room.
All in all, a short but memorable day: coffee, coastal views, local history, and just enough riding to keep the legs honest
Day 4 – Ahititi to Urenui, 68km, 1,130m climbing
Author: Louise
The day dawned a little bit damp and, after a night where SH3 truck traffic had sometimes interrupted our beauty sleep, we were all keen to get going. The rain cleared and, to add to the good news, Pieter was joining us for part of the ride.
Today’s four tunnel day included the lovely Kiwi Road tunnel, which had long been on my must visit list. But the first tunnel of the day was the Okau Road tunnel as we wound our way following the quiet Tongaporutu river valley.
At about 12km up the valley we reached our turnoff into Kiwi Road – although to a casual glance it looked like a farm track as it was unmarked. A lovely gentle bush clad climb on a classic remote gravel road led us to the tunnel and happy chat and photo time ensued. Pieter’s plan was to now ride back to Ahititi school and, having had a look at the road, he was game enough to then follow in the car with a meeting point arranged.
The landscape changed very quickly on the southern side of the tunnel with farming still in operation and the gravel well maintained. A feature of most Taranaki tunnels is that they are always at the top of a hill so were a great spot to regroup and enjoy the engineering skills of those early road builders.
Moki Tunnel West was our next treat with the added bonus of seeing a stock truck driver carefully negotiate his large vehicle through the tiny earthen tunnel. Lunch was at the corner of Moki and Uruti Roads where Pieter caught up with us, so our carefully crafted fern marker on the road wasn’t needed. A gentle uphill with the obligatory steeper pitch led us to Uruti Tunnel – our last tunnel for the day.
It was shortly after this, at the intersection of Uruti and Kaka Roads, that John’s twinkling toes, excellent balance and rapid dismount skills were on show. A steep up had caught a few of us out and the resulting congestion required urgent evasive action by John and he aced it!
Kaka Road was the last climb of the day and again was a lovely gravel road with a nice flowing downhill to lead us to the small settlement of Okoki where the small school has become Camp Okoki and it was great to see it humming with kids on camp. We also met a very well cared for roadside Mrs G. Oat with her own letterbox.
Other highlights of Kaka Road were the first aid given to both Steve’s riding sandal (duct tape repairs) and Annette’s very sore toes (electrical tape). From Okoki we followed the Urenui River back to SH3 where we had a short section before finishing a great day’s riding at Urenui Beach Camp.
Day 5 – Urenui to New Plymouth, 50km, 500m climbing
Author: John
After a big previous day energy levels were a bit subdued this morning. This was quickly rectified by one of the great breakfasts of the tour at The Brunchroom, Urenui.
Then off for the first part of the ride through the rich Taranaki farmland.
First stop was to check out the historic Bertrand Road Suspension Bridge. Just wide enough for a small car to cross. Originally built in 1897 it was more suited to a horse and carriage.
Onwards to the next stop which was the Pukerangiora Historic Reserve. The pa there was the site of one of the most vicious battles between Māori during the Musket Wars in the 1820s. Then in the Taranaki land wars in the 1860s against the British army.
Sadly, we couldn’t get up to see the pa as the site was closed off. A carpark is being developed for easier access to the site.
Then on to a most welcome morning tea at Tawa Glen Cafe.
We then headed for New Plymouth, joining the Coastal Walkway at Bell Block, and taking in the amazing Rewarewa Bridge and the Len Lye Wind Wand.
A group of us rounded the day off with a meal at the Rice Rice Baby restaurant recommended by Catherine, which proved to be one of great meals of the tour.
Day 6 – New Plymouth Pukerangiora Loop, 50km, 490m climbing
Author: Jackie
Crashing waves, seagulls and ducks woke us at Belt Road Seaside Holiday Park.
It took a gentle reminder from Marianne to set the group of seven off to catch the ride leader who was waiting outside the campground. Then we slipped away along the Coastal Walkway toward the Len Lye Wind Wand. We headed over the port railway line that was a feature of the ride doing cross stitch as we headed inland and back through dairy and chicken farming countryside.
At 16kms we reached the Tawa Glen Café. After morning tea, we headed on our way, climbing gently to Pukerangiora Historic Reserve, a very significant local site that was the scene of battles in both the Musket and Taranaki Land Wars.
Then it was more back county roads followed by a step descent to the Bertrand Road Suspension Bridge for lunch. Some exploring, others blackberry picking before settling down to eat serenaded by John B’s harmonica.
Most were pleased to be on e-bikes for the climb back out, while those on muscle bikes worked hard and weren’t far behind, joining us at the crossroads.
We then headed south-west towards the coast, crossing the main highway to enter Bell Block via the magnificent Mangati Walkway, before joining the Coastal Walkway. After crossing the Rewarewa Bridge, we stopped at the Little Easy Container Café owned by Kay’s daughter for further refreshment
A sharp downpour saw most putting on rain jackets for the last leg back to base. Thanks to Pieter for leading.
Day 7 – New Plymouth Pukeiti Oakura Loop, 65km, 950m climbing
Author: Kay
Hub riders, and some hardy Taranaki Tunnel Tour cyclists, set off from Belt Road on another stunning Taranaki morning.
As the Tasman Sea crashed over the Coastal Walkway, we cycled to Len Lye’s famed “Wind Wand” then joined the Huatoki Walkway, through to Carrington Street, and a steady uphill grind to Pukeiti. With its lush rainforest and gardens situated at the base of Mt Taranaki at 366-490 metres above sea level, it’s one of the premier jewels in the crown of the region.
Matt and Marianne left us there to ride to Cape Egmont. Jackie picked up Marianne from there, while Matt rode back to New Plymouth, a 100km ride for him.
Morning tea and exploration done, we followed deep tunnel like cuttings in the road, swathed in dense bush, around to Upper Pitone Road where our descent to the coast began. The downhill rush to SH45 was a great reward for us, especially after the morning’s steady, tortuous ascent.
After crossing the main road, we continued on to the coast through dairy farms to our lunch spot at Weld Road Beach, an idyllic setting. Weld’s claim to fame is the wreck of the Gairloch, a ship which came to grief on the Timaru Reef in 1902, and which has been slowly crumbling since.
After lunch, a pleasant surprise was our route along coastal paths to the beautiful holiday spot of Oakura, favoured by New Plymouth locals.
From Oakura we followed the busy highway back towards the city, stopping in Omata at a lovely little historic church, beautifully situated, with the Kaitake Ranges as a backdrop.
The ride back to Belt Road along Centennial Drive with magical views of the Sugar Loaf Islands from the cliffs above Back Beach and Paritutu ended a wonderful day’s riding.
Thanks Pieter for such a well planned and executed ride and a brilliant day out.
Day 8 – New Plymouth Sights and Cycleways, 40km, 440m climbing
Author: Roz
Stunning panoramic views’ rewarded those who chose to start their day climbing the 156m Paritutu Rock. Group reunited, we rode along some of New Plymouth’s lesser-known walkways into the city.
Reflecting all that surrounds it, the magnificent Govett-Brewster Art Gallery building, with open doors and a warm welcome, shared its unique modern sculptures. It was here that John’s daughter Anna, Senior Curator Len Lye and Contemporary Art, very generously provided us with a wonderful, guided tour of the gallery.
In strict contrast, we rode the balance of the day on a range of serene tracks and cycle paths, being treated to those undeniable sweet fragrances of damp NZ bush and the melodic sounds from babbling mountain streams. Periodically stopping to view historic sites (St Marys Anglican Churchyard and Marsland Hill) and the street he grew up in, Pieter shared his considerable knowledge.
Just when one thought “it could not get better than this” it did! ‘Pukekura Park’, with its magnificent trees, fernery, gardens and lakes.
At Burgess Park, a delightful lunch spot on the banks of the Waiwhakaiho River, John B played soothing tunes on his harmonica while we nourished our bodies and exchanged thoughts, born out of such a fantastic memorable day together.
In the evening, we enjoyed an excellent meal together at Rice Rice Baby. Some in the group were happy to return after already eating there once or twice before, which says a lot about the quality and value of the food on offer, the ambience and, of course, the company!
Day 9 – New Plymouth to Tarata, 60km, 820m climbing + New Plymouth Inglewood Loop, 60km, 620m climbing
Author: Mike
Sixteen riders (a mixture of Taranaki Tunnel Tour and hub riders) left the Belt Road Seaside Holiday Camp and headed along the Coastal Walkway. It was a near perfect day for riding – a cloudless blue sky with a refreshing cool breeze. At the Wind Wand we picked up another three riders.
Another compulsory group photo at Te Rewa Rewa bridge. We turned inland at Bell Block and made it to the Windsor Café in Inglewood for a very noisy late coffee stop. From there the hub riders left to return to New Plymouth.
Eleven unsupported riders carried on towards Tarata. There was minor anxiety when we headed off down Bristol Road to encounter the end of the public road. However, Pieter had arranged access and the gates on the bridge across the Waitara River to be unlocked. We lunched outside the gas-fired McKee Power Station. This route also enabled us to travel through the Tarata Tunnel.
At Tarata we were housed at The Croft, hosted by Julie and Paul. One of the best dinners of the trip. Real country home cooking – roast, potatoes, kumara, salad and coleslaw. Pudding was a crumble (blueberries, raspberries and plum) with ice-cream, cream, and whipped cream. Yum.
Day 10 – Tarata to Whangamomoma, 50km, 830m climbing
Author: Matt
With very fine and calm weather over Taranaki, we woke to a cold and crisp morning at The Croft. For Matt, that started with a quick repair of a mysterious puncture overnight. Our hosts provided a great cooked breakfast for the day’s mission – 50km with four big peaks to climb.
We left just before 8am to beat the heat. We said goodbye to Catherine at the first junction and told a lost stock truck driver not to follow her as she was heading back to New Plymouth through the small Tarata Tunnel.
We were privileged to have a road worker’s flashing vehicle escort us through a long section of road works. Following that was a steep gravel dusty climb with several logging trucks.
We settled for lunch beside the road under some trees. The GPS prediction of a 19% gradient up Whangamomona Saddle was thankfully not realised.
Whangamomona itself was buzzing with a helicopter transporting hives to the Domain. Tent city was established at the Bridge House, before a surprise light drizzle. The pub meals did not leave the carnivores hungry, but the vegetarians were, sadly, badly catered for.
Day 11 – Whangamomoma to Ohura, 60km, 760m climbing
Author: Annette
Leaving Whangamomona this morning brought back memories of the many times I’ve stayed here on ACTA tours. However, this is the first tour I’ve been on through here fully loaded! And it’s quite the challenge.
We understand the Whangamomona Hotel has finally been sold, so who knows what effect that may have on the town as it is one of only two surviving businesses. Asking who of our group had been here before, we found five had come by bicycle, five by vehicle and one had never been before. I wonder when we will next visit.
Our first climb for the day was over Tahora Saddle, which was long but with a good gradient, so once in the flow, was great. We met only a few cars, and they took care passing us. Everyone is feeling fitter and getting in the groove of riding loaded.
We bagged the last of our eight tunnels on the tour, the impressive Moki Tunnel or Hobbit Hole as it is also known, before dropping into the Tangarakau Gorge.
Going through the last part of the road to be sealed was interesting, most of it was still single lane, some metal barriers had been added, but it was already slipping away in places. Still, it was considerably easier to ride than the old gravel.
We stopped at Joshua Morgan’s Grave, proving we were touring cyclists and not just out for a ride.
Our second big climb for the day was long but, again had a good gradient, so we all changed down and chugged over it.
Lunch was on the side of the road near the junction between SH43 and Mangaparo Road,10km from Ohura. Here we met a couple of overseas credit-card tourers who were a little dazed by the hilly terrain in New Zealand. But they were relatively young and barely carrying anything, so they should have made it to Whangamomona.
Our last 10km had three hills which almost seemed tougher than the earlier big climbs. The day was a lot hotter at that point. But overall, the scenery had been stunning, and it was a truly memorable ride.
Tonight, we are staying in Ohura camping outside my friends’ tiny holiday home. Lynne and Michael had agreed to host us, which gave us a lovely flat lawn to camp on. Many years ago, I studied for a BCom with Lynne. Matt arrived first and was alerted to the right property by the man just finishing mowing the lawn for our benefit. We arrived around 1.45pm, a little earlier than our original prediction of 2 to 4pm!
After settling in we wandered around town and then met at the only eating place left in town, The Cossie club, where we had our previously ordered fish and chips and variations thereof and a couple of drinks.
Back at Lynne and Michael’s, they transformed into the duo, WilkieMac, and gave us an excellent performance, singing and playing a wide variety of music and instruments. Most went to their tent beds around 9pm.
Day 12 – Ohura to Piopio, 60km, 630m climbing
Author: Janette
We had a wonderful night at Steve and Annette’s friends, Lynne and Michael, who entertained us with their music – singing and playing guitar and flute.
We woke to rain, so we packed up our wet tents and left at 8am to ride a lot of gravel in a beautiful valley with mist in the hills.
We stopped for lunch in Aria outside a club. After lunch, we rode the last 14km to Piopio where we are staying at the Fat Owl Motel. That evening, we celebrated the last night of the tour with an excellent meal in the adjacent bar and eatery
Day 13 – Piopio to Otorohanga, 45km, 400m climbing
Author: Marianne
The day started before 6.30 am with a fire alarm ringing in our rooms. Heads popped out of every door to smell burnt toast, which turned out to be a wrap in the toaster.
Gentle rain fell as we enjoyed an excellent breakfast at the Fat Pigeon Cafe. A truck driver there, who had passed us the previous day, commented that he’d pass us again, but little did he know that we’d turn off onto quiet backroads in search of as many hills as possible.
We started off heading north on SH3. What are the chances: wide-load truck and trailer units travelling in opposite directions and passing us within a minute of each other.
The rain cleared within an hour. The hills reduced in steepness as we proceeded through the countryside. Gone were the lovely native forest scenic reserves of the last few days. Today was mainly colonial planting, including clipped hedges. A stand of kahikatea was spotted opposite the vacant school where we stopped for morning tea shortly after 10am with just 11km to go.
We stopped for an early lunch/elevensies in Otorohanga before returning to our vehicles at the campground. And that brought our excellent tour to a close.